If Sally sells seashells by the sea shore, Xurxo Alba of Albamar makes Albariño al alba del mar (next to the sea). His family has been farming and making Albariño in Rías Baixas for generations, but it wasn’t until Xurxo finished his oenological studies that they started bottling and commercializing their own wines in 2006. He farms as naturally as possible, as much as the region permits. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentations with native yeasts are a common denominator in all of his wines, and lees contact and oak use vary, vintage to vintage.