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At the foot of Italy's Alps, there's a tiny region called Fara. Boniperti is the type of place where, when you arrive, you walk through the front yard, into the living room, and hang out essentially in the garage, which is the winery. It's small, homemade, and the result is spectacular. Gilberto combines this attention to the traditional work of a wine-grower with the technical knowledge gained by studying oenology at the acclaimed school in Alba. The results are as you would expect, well-made, expressive, thoughtful wines. Vespolina is a cousin of Nebbiolo, the famed Piedmontese grape. It is the jewel of Northern Piedmont with its rustic tannins, spice and delicate fruit.