Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa has been producing traditional wines in the Monferrato hills of southeast Piemonte since 1854. But it was Mario Pesce, admired by both Giacosa and Gaja, who made Scarpa’s reputation in the second half of the 20th century. Traditional sometimes means ‘rustic’, but that’s not the case here. A very present gusto della casa (house style) produces elegant wines with arrow-like acidity and well-aged tannins. Ultra-traditional Barbaresco from a producer who’s been doing it that way for decades. Extra years of aging in botti grandi and then in bottle before release, plus library releases held back for even later release. This is Barbaresco the way it used to be made — where structure, spices, and minerals are at least as important as fruit.